Viande de brousse africaine à Montréal et à Toronto

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Globe and Mail
18/11/06

Bush meat makes city's dining scene
Toronto ranks among top illegal markets for cuts from primates, other wild
animals
OMAR EL AKKAD

Toronto's dining scene is well known for its constellation of delicious
dishes from around the world. But according to recent research by an
American wildlife biologist, the city also has a culinary dark side: a
bustling trade in bush meat, making it a prime destination for thousands of
kilograms of slaughtered wild animals smuggled from Africa.

Justin Brashares, an assistant professor at the University of California at
Berkeley, is conducting a study of illegal bush meat markets in seven
European and North American cities, including Toronto and Montreal.

He found the two Canadian cities top the list, with West African expatriate
volunteers helping him to identifying more than 1,000 kilograms arriving
monthly in each city.

In some cases, Prof. Brashares said, meat is sent to Toronto via the postal
system, partly because of its stricter regulations governing what is allowed
to be seized and searched. In other cases, raw meat was simply stuffed in
suitcases and taken on a plane.



"There are stories of suitcases dripping blood coming around the carousel,"
Prof. Brashares said.

Bush meat markets have thrived for years in Africa and Asia. And when an
African expatriate cab driver in New York showed him where he could buy bush
meat in the city, Prof. Brashares was surprised to find that the trade is
alive and well in Europe and North America. He asked West African expats to
help him study the phenomenon.

Bush meat is the term used to describe meat from wild animals, including
primates.

It is a thriving business in parts of Africa and Asia because it provides
poor villagers with income, and the meat is widely consumed in many African
villages.

According to Prof. Brashares, about 70 to 90 per cent of the bush meat that
comes into cities such as Toronto and Montreal is consumed by people who ate
the meat when they were growing up in their home countries.

But a small portion ends up as a high-end, expensive delicacy, satisfying
some people's culinary curiosity.

Critics say bush meat consumption is helping to wipe out several species of
wild animals, especially primates. Prof. Brashares's study found that
primate meat made up a larger percentage of bush meat in overseas markets
than in African ones. Antelope is the most popular export, followed by
rodents.

Over the years, the bush meat trade has morphed from "occasional to
massive," according to Kerry Bowman, assistant professor at the University
of Toronto's joint centre for bioethics and founder of the Canadian Ape
Alliance.

Three acts apply to anyone caught shipping bush meat into Canada. The most
serious penalties include fines of $250,000 and up to three years in prison.
That people continue risking these stiff penalties shows just how big a
business bush meat is, Prof. Bowman said.

The Canada Border Services Agency doesn't have specific statistics for bush
meat, but more than 59,000 kilograms of illegal meat was seized at 12
airports in Canada during the 2005-06 fiscal year.

Prof. Bowman had heard rumours of bush meat making its way to Montreal and
Toronto, he said, but because the practice is illegal, much of it may end up
in private hands and hidden behind counters. Indeed, some of Prof.
Brashares's volunteers are involved in the trade.

"It's quite an acquired taste, literally and figuratively," Prof. Bowman
said in a phone interview from Egypt, where he is doing environmental work
for the United Nations. "The appetite for it is amazing."

In Africa, the bush meat trade is often directly related to the logging
business, he said. When loggers cut roads into the Congo basin, for example,
hunters are usually the first to follow, often bringing meat back on logging
trucks, he added.

"It's a huge, huge problem."

The bush meat trade not only contributes to the extinction of animal
species, but also it poses serious health hazards. One of the greatest
health risks occurs during butchering.

"You have a lot of blood," said Michael Schillaci, assistant professor at
the University of Toronto at Scarborough's anthropology department, "there's
a high risk of exposure."

The most well-known disease associated with primate butchering is HIV, Prof.
Schillaci said. And in "wet markets," where domesticated and wild animals
mix, there is a risk that an animal could contract two illnesses, such as
avian and human influenza.

A resulting hybrid virus could contain elements of both diseases, making it
harder to combat.

Prof. Brashares said it appears that while there is a serious attempt being
made to curtail the bush meat trade, it isn't generally considered a
priority.

"The impression is that officers are catching about 1 per cent of what's
coming in," he said.